A list of products I have used that work well:

Engine 

Autoglym or Jizer water soluble engine cleaner
Brass brushes
Nylon drill brushes from Frost
Alu Magic
Duck Oil maintenance spray

Paint

Zymol HD Cleanse or Meguiars Paint cleaner
3M Imperial Hand Glaze, One Grand Blitz Wax from Frost

Here is a recipe to make your own car wax. To avoid over drying, just wax your car one section at a time.

To make enough for 1 waxing

  • 8oz/225g carnauba wax
  • 2 tablespoons yellow beeswax
  • 16 floz/450ml turpentine
  • 1 tablespoon pine oil

In a double boiler, heat the carnauba wax and beeswax. Stir, then leave to cool until the mixture just starts to harden. Stir in the turpentine and pine oil. To use, dip a rag into the mixture, rub onto the car’s surface and then polish with a soft cloth.

3M Finesse It

You have 2 choices: use a buffer (preferred) or hand but you need LOTS of elbow grease.

If you use a rotary buffer ensure that it has a variable speed controller. This helps when you first use the equipment. Also, some of the buffers that have this feature are either on or off, there is no ramping feature. You want a buffer that you can squeeze the trigger a little and get a slow speed and as you apply more pressure, the rpm's increase. The speed controller acts like a limiter on these types of machines. Product says to buff at 1800 rpm's but I would start at 1500 and work up as my comfort increase with the equipment.

Make sure the foam pad is cantered on the back-up pad. If it isn't the buffer could throw you around some. When using the buffer, be careful on edges, around the sunroof seals (hard to clean) and do not do the Porsche Decal on the back and the stoneguards by the wheels. You can either tape off the parts of the car you don't want buffed (door handles, windshield washers, black bumper guards etc... or be very careful buffing around them). This product is difficult to remove if it has been buffed into the plastic

Wash and dry car. Apply a small amount (this is important) to 1/2 a panel and begin buffing. Apply fair pressure to the buffer and angle the buffer so that the tip of the pad is doing the work. A perfectly flat buffer is difficult to handle. Depending on the age of the paint, you may get some smearing. This is Ok. You can remove it by applying more Finesse-it or washing afterwards. Another option, and the one I use all the time, is to wet the foam pad (and wring out) before buffing. This increases the amount of sling that flies around but makes the product easier to use in my opinion.

Let up on the pressure as the product begins "dry" Continue around the car. It is best to start high and work your way down (roof, bonnet, back, front, sides) Clean car and wax as soon as possible. This stuff will get everywhere so make sure you clean it well. It takes usually twice as long to clean as it does to buff. A toothbrush and some soap works well on hard to reach areas.

On curved edges (transition from a horizontal to vertical surface) buff lightly. This is where the paint is the thinnest. - Be careful around antennas and other similar items. A buffer going at 1800 rpm's can rip it right off the car. - Keep the buffer cord behind you at all times. When the cord gets tangled with a rotating buffer, flesh can be torn open and damage done to the vehicle as well. I usually tape the cord to me out of the way. A car can be done with one pad. To clean, run pad under water and wring dry. - cover window washer jets with tape.

Costs from memory for a previous question were

3M Finesse-it about 10 pounds a litre - will last forever

3M Waffle pad - about 5 pounds

 

Leather

Cleaning and re-dyeing works wonders. I did the seat bolsters, gear gaiter and steering wheel:

Woolies
Gliptone

Leatherique

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